A Bohol adventure

Isola de Francesco

TAGBILARAN City—“Would you like to go to a fiesta? I know a friend who lives here.” We were driving to the tarsier sanctuary when our guide suddenly popped the question as we passed by Loay town in Bohol, with some its townsfolk roasting pigs by the roadside. The banderitas were up and I could also see people walking from one house to another. But having grown up in Metro Manila, we demurred at the offer. The idea of showing up in a stranger’s home to feast on his food…wouldn’t that be embarrassing? Nonsense, said our guide Paul. He said he knows the bishop. And if the bishop’s home was too crowded, there was always a colleague who had a house by the beach. And so from there, our four-day vacation in this island province with its famous beaches, historic churches, and beautiful people took another adventurous turn.

Bohol may have been raved by the earthquake in 2013 but its people have not –-lost their hospitality, especially during feast days. Paul brought us to his colleague’s home by the beach in Loay and, after being briefly introduced to our gracious host, we joined the feast. Now, it may disconcerting for some but the idea during Filipino fiestas is to welcome people, even total strangers, to partake in the blessings you have received during the year by letting them share in the feast you’ve prepared.

So, we took our share of the huge lechon baboy (roasted pig) that occupied almost half of the table, paklay (pig innards in strips), kalderetang kanding (goat stewed in tomato sauce), and steamed pansat (prawns). “Wala ng hiya-hiya. Nandito na rin naman tayo,” Paul jokingly said as he struggled to finish his plate. The feast was capped with delicious servings of budbud (rice cake desserts wrapped in banana leaves) and fruits. Our host was also offering brandy but we had to go after profusely thanking him for letting us share in the celebration. From Loay, we drove off to the Sandugo monument, which commemorates the blood compact between Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez De Legazpi and Datu Sikatuna, the chieftain of Bohol, on March 15, 1565.

Another historical site we visited the  Baclayon church—formally the La Purisima Concepcion de la Virgen Maria Parish Church—which is said to be the second oldest stone church in the Philippines after the venerable San Agustin in Intramuros. The 2013 earthquake severely damaged the church—its façade crumbled—but workers have put up scaffolding to keep the whole structure from falling apart. We toured the museum, housed in the former convento, which contained ancient vestments, song books, and holy vessels. But what turned out to be the real eye candy for me was the church interior itself, with its imposing retablos and the saints they held up high. “They don’t make churches like they used to,” my friend quipped. But it’s not just historic sites that beckon at tourists visiting Bohol.

Baclayon Church

Besides the Chocolate Hills and the tarsier sanctuary, Bohol is also known for its beautiful beaches. We chose to stay at Alona beach in Panglao island (45 minutes from Tagbilaran) for its nightlife.

Chocolate Hills

Locals liken it to Boracay—resorts, bars, and restos line the beach— but the scene is actually more subdued. There are no hordes of tourists walking around to disturb your nap. However, Alona Beach—which supposedly got its name after 1970s sexy star Alona Allegre ran naked across the beach while shooting a movie—is definitely commercialized. Those looking for more tranquil shores are advised to check out Dumaluan beach next door or travel to Anda, Bohol to find serenity or the perfect honeymoon. On the other hand, Alona beach is a good jump off point if you want to visit Balicasag island.  Balicasag has a marine sanctuary for sea turtles and other marine life. Your guide can also lead bring your boat to an area near the island, where dolphins freely roam.

Just make sure to ask your boatman about the extra costs of visiting Balicasag- –from the entrance fee for the marine sanctuary to the extra fees to see the sea turtles and the giant clams. These may sound daunting but the trip to Balicasag is actually worth it, especially if you drop by “Virgin Island.” Situated between Balicasag and Panglao, this small island and its white sand is perfect for picture taking and selfies. Also named Isola de Francesco, the island has a statue of Padre Pio, the famous Capuchin mystic who bore the stigmata or the wounds of Jesus Christ. The Catholics bishops’ website actually describes the island, which is owned by the Philippine Centre of St. Pio of Pietrelcina, as a “pilgrims hideaway…a place for meditation and reflection.” But as Russian tourists in two-piece bathing suits played along the sandbar, I started thinking if the place also celebrated the saint’s feast day. And if they do, do they also serve lechon, kanding, and paklay?